Return to qty.com
Regreso a  qty.com

What’s the difference between celluloid and Darvic color bands?
¿Cuál es la diferencia entre los anillos Darvic y celuloides?

Where can I learn about bird banding?
¿Dónde puedo aprender acerca del anillado de aves?

Is there a bird banding e-mail group  can  join
to learn more?
¿Existe algún grupo de anillado de aves al cual 
me puedo unir para poder aprender más?

What mesh size should I use for small birds?
¿Qué medida de abertura de malla debería 
usar para aves pequeñas?

What mesh size should I use for_raptors or large waders?
¿Qué medida debería usar para aves de rapiña 
o las largas aves zancudas? 

What mesh size should I use for the bird I am studying?
¿Qué medida de abertura de malla debería usar para 
el ave que estoy estudiando?

What mesh size should I use for Screech Owls?
¿Qué medida de abertura de malla debería usar 
para los Búhos Bulleros?

More on mesh size (abstract)
Más acerca del tamaño de la abertura de malla (abstracto)

What factors affect the degree of entanglement of a
bird in a net?
¿Qué factores afectan el grado de enmañamiento del ave en la red?

How do I read a vernier scale?
¿Cómo puedo leer una balanza Vernier?

What is a MODO?  (About four letter bird codes.)
¿Qué es un MODO? (Sobre cuatro letra códigos de aves).

My binocular magnifier's  lenses are slipping down.  Help!
Mis lentes - lupa binocular se están resbalando.  ¡Ayúdenme! 

I just received an Avinet spring scale with the tare 
adjusting knob installed upside down.
Acabo de recibir una Balanza Spring de Avinet con 
la perilla para balancearla a cero instalada de cabeza. 

Trammel knots keep loosening.
Los nudos del enmallado siguen aflojándose

My wing rule stop got bent!
El tope de mi regla para medir alas se ha doblado. 

My pole sections don't fit together anymore.
Las secciones del poste ya no se ajustan más.

How do I keep the loops up?
¿Cómo mantengo los loops para  arriba?

How do I push the loops up, and pull them down?
¿Cómo tiro mis loops para arriba 
y cómo los jalo hacia abajo?

How far is it?
¿Qué tan lejos está?

How can I seal (weld) plastic bands?
¿Cómo puedo sellar (soldar) los anillos plásticos?

Which poles should I take travelling?
¿Qué postes debería llevar al viajar?

What knot is used to make mist net webbing?
¿Qué clase de nudo es utilizado 
para hacer las redes para niebla?

How many significant figures should I use?
¿Cuántas figuras significantes debería usar?

Where can I get telemetry equipment?
¿Dónde puedo obtener un equipo de telemetría?

Where can I get patagial wing tags?
¿Dónde puedo obtener marcadores de alas?

Why are these trammels different lengths?
¿Por qué tienen las trampas diferentes largos?

Do you carry net guns or rocket nets?
¿Ustedes cargan pistolas de redes o redes-cohete?

Pointy caliper notes.
Notas puntuales sobre calibradores 

A bird (or a bat) escaped from my holding bag.
???????????????????????????????????????

Why won't my pliers hold bands?
¿Por qué mi alicate no sostiene los anillos?

Stan Moore's Northern California raptors.
Las aves de rapiña del Norte de California de Stan Moore.

Can nets be rejuvenated and dyed?
¿Pueden ser las redes rejuvenecidas  y teñidas
 

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Where can I learn about bird banding?

Start here Bird Banding Laboratory

¿Dónde puedo aprender acerca del anillado de aves?

Comience aquí  Bird Banding Laboratory
(Laboratorio de Anillado de aves)
-s-

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Yup, click here   BIRDBAND

¿Existe algún grupo de anillado de aves al cual me puedo unir para poder aprender más?

IP, haga clic aquí   BIRDBAND

-s-

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Here's what Bill Hilton, Jr. has to say about mesh size-

25mm (1") x 50/2
This is the smallest standard mesh size, usually used only for
hummingbirds. Some banders prefer this size for capturing
kinglets and the smallest wood warblers, but birds even as
small as Song Sparrows will sometimes bounce out of this
net; species that take sizes larger than 0 or OA are best
captured with a larger size mesh.

30mm x 70/2
1-1/4" x 50/2
This net works well at capturing typical wood warblers,
wrens, smaller sparrows (Chipping, Field, etc.). Loosely set,
it will capture birds as large as Northern Cardinals, but it
works best for birds that take sizes 0 and 1.

38mm x 50/2 & 70/2
1-1/2" x 50/2
36mm and 38mm mesh is the "all-purpose" size for banders
who can't afford to purchase several different mesh sizes.
Although hummingbird, chickadees, and kinglets may slip
through this mesh, with enough bag it will usually catch  wood
warblers and sparrows, plus most birds that take 1A or 1B
band sizes.

60mm (~2-1/2") x 110/2
This net is ideal for jays, all but the smallest woodpeckers,
mourning doves, robins, grackles, etc. Birds the size of
chickadees and wood warblers can slip through almost without
stopping. In general, this size works well with birds that wear
band sizes 2 through 5.

-Bill Hilton, Jr.
Hilton Pond
Operation Rubythroat

¿Qué medida de abertura de malla debería usar 
para aves pequeñas?

He aquí lo que Bill Hilton, Jr. tiene que decir acerca del 
tamaño de la abertura de malla. 

25mm (1") x 50/2
Este es el más pequeño de los tamaños de abertura de mallas 
standard, mayormente es usado sólo para colibríes. Algunos 
anilladores prefieren esta medida para capturar kinglets y los 
más pequeños trinadores del bosque, pero aves aún más 
pequeñas que los gorriones cantores algunas veces rebotarán 
esta red.  Especies que usen medidas más grandes 
que 0 o OA podrán ser capturadas con una red de mayor 
abertura de malla.

30mm x 70/2 
1-1/4" x 50/2 
Esta red trabaja bien al capturar los típicos trinadores del 
bosque, reyesuelos y 
pequeños gorriones.  Dispuesta de una manera holgada 
capturará aves tan grandes como los Cardenales del Norte, 
pero trabajará mejor para aves que usen tallas 
0 y 1.

38mm x 50/2 & 70/2 
1-1/2" x 50/2
Las aberturas de 
malla de 36mm y de 38mm son las  medidas  “para todo 
propósito” para los anilladores que no pueden solventar 
el gasto de comprar redes de diferentes tamaños de aberturas 
de malla.  Sin embargo, colibríes, chickadees y kinglets se 
puedes escurrir fácilmente por la abertura de malla, con
suficiente bolsillo usualmente podrá atrapar trinadores del 
bosque y gorriones, adicionalmente la mayoría de las aves 
que usen bandas de medida 1A o 1B.

60mm (~2-1/2") x 110/2 
Esta red es la ideal para arrendajos, todos menos pequeños 
pájaros carpinteros, mourning doves, robins, grackles, etc. 
Aves de la medida de los chickadees and trinadores del bosque 
se pueden escaper casi sin ningún problema.  En general, esta 
medida trabaja bien con aves que usen medidas de banda 2 hasta el 5

-Bill Hilton, Jr. 

Hilton Pond
Operation Rubythroat 

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It depends on a variety of factors-  Exactly what species you are
targetting, and what method you will be using ... mist net, fixed
Dho Gaza, break away Dho Gaza, the behavior of an individual
bird.

If you have netting experience but need help with a
particular raptor-catching problem,  ask the experts on
BIRDBAND.

-s-

¿Qué medida debería usar para aves de rapiña o las largas aves zancudas?

Eso depende de una variedad de factores. Exactamente, qué especies son su objetivo y qué método va a usar…redes para niebla, las mejoradas Dho Gaza o las Dho Gaza separables, asi como el comportamiento individual de cada ave.Si usted tiene experiencia en redes pero necesita ayuda con algún problema de captura de alguna ave de rapiña, pregunte a los expertos en BIRDBAND. 
 

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We hear this question very frequently, often from someone who is
is going off to some remote exotic locale to begin their, research 
and wants to know which mist net to take.

  We really can't properly answer the question.  Netters acquire 
preferences for mesh sizes from experience.  And conditions 
may at times favor different mesh sizes for the same species. And 
there is overlap in what species each mesh size will catch.  A
smaller mesh in general will catch a larger range of bird sizes. 
The larger mesh sizes start letting smaller birds though the webbing. 
I can, however, with assurance, urge you to take more than one net. 
Better yet, to take several, or more, nets in a variety of mesh sizes. 
Best yet, take more than you possibly think you will need, it may 
turn out to be enough
  If your target species is a small bird, Bill Hilton, Jr's.recommendations 
above should get you close enough for any catchable small bird
in the world.  You're spending a lot of time and money on the 
expedition, your success depends on catching  birds, usually as 
many as possible.  Ask the experts on BIRDBAND how many nets 
they would take on expedition.
  If you are trying to catch a large species and, need some guidance,
don't wait until the last minute, consult the experts on BIRDBAND. 
  If you are beginning your research locally, and can't decide between
two mesh sizes, get the smaller one first, and go from there.  Better
yet get both mesh sizes so you can compare which is most efficient 
for your bird.

Warning:  You will be happy trying our USA-made nets, 
but you will get spoiled.

-s-
 

¿Qué medida de abertura de malla debería usar para el ave que estoy estudiando?

Esta pregunta la escuchamos frecuentemente, a menudo de alguien que está saliendo a alguna  remota y exotica locación para comenzar su investigación y quiere saber cuál es la net que tiene que llevar. 

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MESH SIZE AS A FACTOR IN AVIAN 
COMMUNITY STUDIES USING MIST NETS 

Abstract. This study tests the hypothesis that mist nets of different 
mesh size preferentially capture birds of differing masses. Species 
weighing <16 g were more frequently caught in 30 than 36 mm 
mesh nets, while species in the 16-25-g size category were equally 
likely to be caught in the 30 or 36 mm mesh nets. The species 
comprising the 26-50-g and 50-g categories were more often 
caught in 36 mm mesh nets. 

Pardieck, K., and R. B. Waide. 1992. 
Mesh size as a factor in avian community studies using mist nets. 
Journal of Field Ornithology 63:250-255.
 

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What factors affect the degree of entaglement of a bird in a net?

In my experience, there are two major factors which determine the degree of
entanglement of a bird in a net, hence work against its removal: mesh size
and time in net.  Referring specifically to Black-capped Chickadees, which
are easy to remove from a net of the proper mesh size, let me offer the
following:
 

1) Mesh Size - A bird's entanglement in a net is a matter of how much of
itself it can push through or wedge into the net meshes.  The three most
critical parts of its anatomy are its head, bend of wing (carpal area) and
feet.
 

In a 25-mm mesh net, a Black-capped Chickadee easily puts its feet through
the mesh, but very little else, making the bird relatively easy to remove.
 

At 30 mm, the bird may potentially engage more of its anatomy into the net
meshes making removal a little more difficult.
 

However, at 36 mm, a chickadee may easily thrust its head through the net
mesh, as well as more of its carpus, and become a major removal problem
depending on 2) below.
 

2) Time - Most birds in a net wiggle or squirm or otherwise fight the net.
As they hang downward, gravity accentuates their wedging themselves into the
netting.  The longer they have in the net, the worse their entanglement,
especially at larger mesh sizes.
 

If you want easy removal of Chickadees from nets (they really are easy given
proper conditions), use smaller mesh nets, and limit time in the net.
 

Having said that, life is full of compromises.  The use of only 25-mm mesh
nets would limit capture of larger species such as sparrows, thrushes, jays,
etc., because small-mesh nets do not hold larger birds well.  Therefore, many
songbird banders rely on 30- and 36-mm mesh nets to improve holding power of
the net.  If you do that and you are encountering many wee folk such as
chickadees, nuthatches, kinglets and smaller warblers, you need to increase
your visitations to the nets to lessen entanglement of these wee folk to
facilitate their removal.

-Bob Yunick

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Try these links.

Java applet - Venier

Scales Vernier Scales

JQR  131.02 Vernier Caliper

Practice Reading Vernier Scales

-s-

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Try these links.

Bird Banding Manual Codes

Overview of systems for encoding bird names

USGS Complete Species Table in Alpha Code order

North American Bird Codes

Four-Letter Codes for Birds in B.C.

Four Letter Codes in Alphabetic Order (BC)

-s-

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Put the magnifier on smooth hard surface ... anvil, vice anvil, concrete floor.
Tap a pivot rivet LIGHTLY with a medium size hammer until the lenses 
stay up.  If you want the action a little stiffer, tap the other rivet a little.

-s-

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The manufacturer (my father) thinks it looks better the new way.
They scales work properly either way.

-s-

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We have heard that this happens on all imported nets. 
Trammel knots will not loosen on USA made Avinets. 
We assemble these nets ourselves using a secret knot. 
    Using super glue on imported net knots, has been 
suggested, but I have recently heard that cyano-acrylate 
doesn't cure well in this application. In my experiments I 
used a cyano-acrylate catalyst (hardener) which seemed
to work, but it may be hard to find.  I found it at Radio 
Shack.
    Instead, you might try clear silicone adhesive/caulk. It's 
flexible when cured and may work better. Try this on an 
old net first, and be sure the stuff has completely cured 
before stowing the net or a big mess will surely result. 
When I get some time I will try it, if you try it before then, 
let me know how it works. 

-s-

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First check to make sure the rule section is straight. If not,
straighten it gently with your hands. Then check the 
squareness of the stop with the end of another Avinet wing 
rule, a machinist's square, or a draftsperson's triangle.You 
may see a very small gap, that's ok, but if the gap is obviously
too large, clamp the rule vertically, stop end up, in a vise 
with soft jaws. Clamp it on the riveted section so the rivets 
won't get stressed  by the following procedure. Leave a 
small gap between the inner face of the stop and the soft jaw. 
With a medium hammer, gently tap the stop down, or with 
the widest screwdriver you can find, pry it up into square. 
Or call to get instructions for sending it back to me. 
I'll repair it ... no charge. 
888 284-6387

-s-

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The problem is probably a connector that got mushroomed 
from frequent pounding.  Use a file to restore the 45 degree 
chamfer. Or, the open end may have been bashed out-of-round. 
First be sure this is really the problem, then cut off an inch 
with a hacksaw, and deburr the opening. 
  This isn't really a frequently heard question or complaint. 
I have only heard it a few times.  I expect to hear it even
less now that the connectors are hard anodized.

-s-

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Angle your poles slightly out at the top to provide tension.
Use a hitch in the loop.
The ridge formed by the connector will provide a sure
grip for the top loop.

-s-

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Put nail, screw, or bolt through the end of a stick.
Or make something fancier like this from an old 
pole section.

This pole top section has an older color anodized 
connector.  You may have improved connectors 
that are hard anodized gray.

-s-

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Folks on BIRDBAND and other lists frequently ask for a distance
calculator link.  Here is the one most often suggested.

How Far it is

-s-

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I haven't tried one of these but it should work.

ISO-TIP cordless soldering iron

A bander reports that Circuit Specialists shipped his cordless 
soldering iron order promptly.  More on technique later, when I
hear from experienced Darvic welders.

-s-

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Unless you will have to lug poles far afield at your destination,
I think you should use the one inch diameter poles which are much
sturdier and better able to withstand rough treatment by baggage
handlers.  One set 5/8" x 36" (4 top + 2 bot) = just under two pounds.
One set 1" x 36" (4 top + 2 bot) = ~ 4-1/2 pounds

-s-

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What knot is used to make mist net webbing?

English knots, sometimes called single knots, are actually 
bowlines in form. 

-s-

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Sinificant figure fable

Significant figure tutorial

Significant figure rules

-s-

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These are not recommendations, it's a list I found
on www.

Telemetry equipment suppliers

Here's an org that tracks by satellite.

Center for Conservation
Research & Technology (CCRT)

-s-

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Sorry, we don't make or distribute wing markers.
Their isn't enough demand, largely because researchers
prefer to make their own tags.
  Find more information about wing tags and other
alernative marking techniques at The Ornithological Council's
"Guidelines to the Use of Wild Birds in Research"-

G. Patagial (Wing) Markers and Leg Tags

-s-

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Previously I had thought that imported nets with uneven 
trammel lengths were simply poorly constructed, now I am not 
so sure. Some imported nets have uneven trammels to begin with, 
but apparently many start out ok but get stretched out of shape
after long use. I have just discovered that this phenomena 
may affect USA-made AviNets as well.
  My current theory is that tethering causes the frame to have 
different stretching characteristics than the trammels.   Hmmm.. I 
have been thinking about how to re-design mist nets to eliminate this 
potential problem. 
  Tethering every trammel so that all support elements are identical is 
not a good solution. Net assembly is already much too labor 
intensive. You won't like the increased cost, and I don't think you 
will like the way a fully tethered net behaves. 
  Using two weaker twines for the frame/tether combination is not a 
good solution either. Doubled lines will behave differently than a 
single line in stretch rate.  Different fatigue rates further complicate 
the matter.
  A realistically possible solution is anchoring the webbing at intervals 
to the frame with small unconnected knots in lieu of tethering. Then 
no part of the frame would receive stretch-resisting help from a tether. 
It would, however, be a radical departure from tradition. It may be 
more difficult to produce nets this way, and I don't know of a knot 
that will do the job. Any knot would leave tag ends, however short, 
flapping in a breeze. If  I can think of a good knot I will try it out 
anyway. 
  Even with all trammels exactly the same, there is no guarantee 
that they will fatigue at the same rate. The higher trammels have a 
leverage advantage over the lower ones. Unless you use poles and 
anchoring methods that result in absolutely rigid support for the net, the 
higher trammels can simply pull poles closer together, the lower ones 
cannot. Depending on your rig, the the lower trammels may experience 
a very different tension than the higher ones.  It could vary from much 
greater tension down to none at all! 
  The bottom line is that I can't think of a way to completely eliminate 
the potential problem of unequal trammel stretching. 
  We have been making USA AviNets essentially the same way 
with the same materials for years. Recently, I heard from one bander 
whose trammels stretched out longer than the frame. So, I am confident 
the problem is a rare one.  If you, however,  have a similar experience, 
with our USA-made nets, please let me know. 
<sam@qty.com> 
  Meanwhile, for whatever reason, there probably are a lot of 
imported nets out there with unequal trammels. If they look good, 
and don't seem to have much UV damage they might be worth 
fixing. More on how to shorten trammels later...

-s-
18 May 2001

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Sorry, we don't carry nets guns or rocket nets.
Aces has Coda net guns and Coda net launchers.

ACES

Also try

Wildlife Materials, Inc.

-s-

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Because you need to measure different things differently than
machinists, our pointy calipers are modified in several ways.
The slender jaws have been ground down and depth guage has
been removed.  The depth stick can be an annoyance when 
present,  and with it gone, the moving jaw needs little force to 
get it moving smoothly. Not visibly noticeable is the light 
adjustment of the gib screws, which helps contribute to the silky 
feel. It means, however, that you must push the jaws together with 
a light, consistent touch to "zero" the instrument. When a machinists 
measure tough, strong steel cylinders OD to 0.001" they bear down 
on the jaws with significant force. When you, a biologist,  line 
up the points with some features on an animal, there is no force at 
all on the jaws. Should you ever use the flats of the jaws to measure, 
let's say a leg diameter, you will use minimal force to avoid deforming 
the relatively soft, weak structure.  So the smooth, easy movement 
isn't just nice, it is an important feature. 
   Back to the gib adjusting screws: Because they are set loosely, 
they are likely to further loosen up with use.  These two tiny 
screws are accessed through little holes in the plastic case on the 
"top" surface where the battery hatch is located.  When the play 
gets too sloppy, "set them down" very lightly with a watch 
screwdriver.  Stop when you first feel them touch bottom, then back 
them off a tiny amount. Too tight and the sliding action will be rough, 
too loose and it will be difficult to maintain a consistent zero. It may 
take several tries at first, to get it just right. Once you have done it a 
few times, it becomes a snap.  I did not use Locktite on the gib 
adjusting screws, because of their small size even the low-strength 
type would make adjusting them difficult.   Zeroing the instrument and 
adjusting the play should be easy to do, now that you know the 
reasons for the modifications and how to make best use of them. 
  Changing the battery.  The battery should last a long time .. years, 
even with frequent use.  When it is time to change the battery, remove 
the little rubber hatch cover and gently shake it out.  If it doesn't 
come out easily, very carefully use a small watch screwdriver to 
gently start it moving side to side. As a last resort, remove the screw 
between the two control buttons, and starting at the bottom, 
carefully lift off the plastic cover. 
  Gick stuck to the tracks (sliding surfaces) can make the action 
sticky.  Use a slightly damp paper towel or cloth to remove water 
soluble stuff, sometimes I get in there with a Q-Tip. Then spray a 
small amount of WD40 or something similar on a paper towel to dry 
and lubricate the metal surfaces.  Don't spray anything directly on any 
part of the caliper. The front surface of the beam and capacitative 
sensor it contacts, behind the display, need to be relatively dry to work 
properly. 
  The very slender points could get bent if dropped hard, so please be 
nice to these calipers. Thanks!

-s-

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Sorry!  If the holding bag was supplied with a cordlock, it can be 
used for rapid closure.  Two half hitches are quick and easy to tie,
adding them will provide escape-proof security. (Scroll or click the image.)

-s-

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For best results your [Back] button will take you back to 
Avinet.com's online ordering web site. 

Or try HOLDING BAGS then [Refresh] if needed.

Exposure to ultraviolet has probably weakened 
the rubber "O" ring.  Just ask for a replacement ring, 
or use a rubber band as a substitute.  The advantage 
of rubber bands is by trying a few different ones, you
can get the exact amount of tension you prefer.

-s-

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Stan Moore's Northern California raptors.

Dear friends --

One listserver member contacted me privately, 
asking about what species are prevalent in my area of 
northern California [around San Francisco Bay], and 
what I could expect to see in a typical trapping day 
and perhaps be able to trap and band. Here is the 
bulk of my reply:

In my area the most catchable birds with bal-chatris 
are in this order:

 Red-tailed Hawk  Buteo jamaicensis
 Red-shouldered Hawk  Buteo lineatus
 American Kestrels Falco sparverius
 Cooper's Hawk   Accipiter cooperi
 Great Horned Owl  Bubo virginianus -- at dusk or 
dawn

Eagles require special permits and are not generally 
trapped by banders. I have assisted in trapping golden 
eagles in a special research project under others' pemits, 
but golden eagles are very wary and usually difficult to trap 
in this area with lots of prey available and these local, 
non-migratory birds  tend to avoid conspicuous traps.

Common raptors that are trappable with a dho-gaza and 
Great Horned Owl during the nesting season are pretty 
much all the above plus the following:

 Sharp-shinned Hawk  Accipiter striatus
 Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus
 White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus  -- but this is a 
threatened species requiring special permits, too.
 Prairie Falcon  Falco mexicanus  not common in my area, 
but in drier areas to the west.
 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus  still on the state's 
endangered list and still requiring special permits.
 Swainson's Hawk Buteo swainsoni breeds to the east, 
but threatened species requiring special permits.
 Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis  breeds in the 
mountains to the east and is easy to trap when encountered.

In the winter we have:

 Ferruginous Hawk (Buteo regalis)  hard to trap due to
slowness of response.
 Rough-legged Hawk (Buteo lagopus)  generally docile and 
hard to trap.
 Merlin (Falco columbarius)  trappable with dho-gaza and 
live sparrow or starling.
 Broad-winged Hawk (Buteo platypterus)  migrant only - 
winters to the south and rarely trapped on migration.

Birds commonly trapped on migration at special stations with 
combinations of bownets, mistnets, and dho-gazas capable 
of catching large numbers of birds per day:  The best day 
ever at the local migration station was about 90 birds of 
several species combined, but in some stations around North 
America hundred bird days are regular, and maximum 
numbers of captures  can be over 300 birds in a single day 
(on very rare days).

Here are the common species names of commonly banded 
migrants:

 Red-tailed Hawk
 Cooper's Hawk
 Sharp-shinned Hawk
 American Kestrel
 Merlin
 Red-shouldered Hawk
 Prairie Falcon
 Peregrine Falcon

and others on rare occasions including 

 Golden Eagle 
 Ferrugionous Hawk 
 Rough-legged Hawk 
 Goshawk 

A typical trapping day in the winter I might actually trap as 
many as four of the species in the list at the top. A good 
day is ten captures with a bal-chatri.  Fifteen is the most I 
have trapped in a day with a bal-chatri.  It is certainly 
possible to trap more if things go perfectly.

I band raptors year round.  I have trapped extensively at 
migration stations, but do not emphasize that any more due 
to practice of falconry.

Stan Moore 
San Geronimo, CA 
<stangabboon@juno.com>

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B- SAM . . . Happy Monday!

S- The same to you!

B- Is there a reliable way to extend the life of nylon or polyester nets 
by soaking them in some kind of "rejuvenating" compound? 

S- Not that I know of.. nylon and polyester are polymers.  Bacteria, 
chemicals in the atmosphere (ozone,) and other agents can weaken a 
polymer by breaking apart its long molecular chains.  But, not counting 
bats and cows,  a mist nets worst enemy is high energy electromagnetic 
radiation .. ultra-violet light.  Nylon and polyester seems to last 
forever when stored in cool, dry, and dark conditions, but once they 
have been degraded by long term exposure to UV, there is no way 
that I know of to rejuvenate them.  There are hairsprays that are 
supposed to protect ones coiffure.  Would spraying mist nets with such 
stuff before they got damaged by UV protect them?  Would you have 
to spray nets before every use?  Only experimention will provide the 
answers.

B- If so, have you considered selling a "Net Rejuvenation Kit" that 
contained such a compound and perhaps a dye that might darken 
faded nets? 

S- I'll do some research on protective sprays. 

B- Large-scale net users might not want to mess with such a product, 
but folks like me might find it useful. In my case, Avinet's U.S.-made 
nets stay strong much longer than J-nets, but they do tend to fade.

S- The webbing is the same in Avinets USA made nets and our 
Japanese made nets.  You are probably noticing the difference 
between polyester and nylon.  Polyester is much more resistant to UV 
degradation. 
  Is fading per se so bad? Has anyone done a study on 
the visiblity to birds of black vs a lighter color?  Norm Hogg intended 
to do just such a long term study but unfortunately he died before the 
experiments were started.  Look at a webbing strand at various angles 
under sunlight with a medium power magnifier. Notice a highlight that 
produces contrast on the high ("dorsal") side?  Through natural selection 
some animals are said to reduce this attention-getting contrast wth 
countershading. Well, countershading a mist net would be a daunting goal, 
but might not an overall neutral or average reflectivity, of 18% reduce 
contrast and thus be less visible to birds?  For now we offer mists nets 
in black because it is widely believed to be the best color.  At this time I don't 
have an opportunity to conduct experiments that may demonstrate that 
black is not the best color for mist nets.

B- I've tried re-dyeing nets with RIT dye, but it didn't work all that well; 
such might be the case for what I'm suggesting.

S- A long time ago there was a net dying thread on BIRDBAND 
that mentioned RIT, so I tried it. It seemed to lay a thick coating of pigment 
mostly on the surface of the nylon. It made a mess. 

B- Cheers,

BILL

S- Thanks Bill

Follow up note: Since writing the above,  I did some research on 
UV blocking fabric treatments and found a new product called 
Rit Sun Guard.  You treat your clothes with it, and it is supposed 
to protect you from harmful UV radiation.  Will it protect your nets 
from ultraviolet radiation damage?  I don't know and RIT, so far, 
has not replied to my inquiries. I haven't found it in the stores yet. 
And since I don't band birds, I don't have the time to keep an eye 
on a set up net for a season. I also found some other industrial 
strength chemical UV blocking treatments available to professionals 
(commercial fabric treaters and manufacturers,) but don't have 
samples to try at this time.
15 Aug 2001

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"Although Screech Owls will get caught in 38mm, I like 60mm 
best--especially if the bander wants to avoid having to take bats 
out of the net at night. ...." 

Bill Hilton, Jr.

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What’s the difference between celluloid and Darvic color bands?

The big advantage of celluloid bands is the ease with which you can
seal them (with acetone). They also hold their “memory” a bit better
than Darvic. Unfortunately, the U.K. manufacturer of celluloid is going
out of business, and one by one, the celluloid colors are becoming
unavailable. We will continue to order as many celluloid bands as we
can, for as long as we can. Yellow and white are no longer available
and we will discontinue those celluloid colors when supplies are exhausted.
The disadvantage of celluloid, aside from unavailability, is the tendency
for the colors to fade over time. Darvic is the trade name for un-plasticized
PVC, which is dyed with colorfast dyes and is UV resistant. That’s
the number one advantage of Darvic bands. It is possible to seal
Darvic bands with plumber's UPVC Solvent Cement, which uses
methyl ethyl ketone as a solvent to partially dissolve the plastic to form
a bond. Acetone will not work on Darvic bands and Superglue (tm) is
unsuitable because it does not work by solvent action1. For the
strongest bond, you may melt the seam of the Darvic band shut,
using a small portable soldering iron. (Thanks to Nils Warnock of
PRBO for his guidance with Darvic band issues). Darvic bands are a
bit more brittle than celluloid bands. Darvic colors are more vibrant
than celluloid colors; between the two materials you may get quite
different shades of the same color. Light blue and light green, for example,
are much lighter in Darvic than they are in celluloid.
Important note: Store leg bands at or under 110°F (43°C)
or bands will lose curvature and break.
Do not leave leg bands in your hot vehicle!

¿Cuál es la diferencia entre los anillos Darvic y celuloides?

La gran ventaja de los anillos celuloides radica en la facilidad para ser sellados (con acetona).  Otra ventaja es que conservan su forma un poco mejor que los anillos Darvic.  La desventaja de los anillos de celuloide es que se destiñen con el paso del tiempo. Desafortunadamente, el fabricante inglés de celuloide esta saliendo del mercado y como consecuencia, uno por uno, los anillos de colores están siendo descontinuados.  Tanto como podamos nosotros estaremos ordenando estos anillos celuloide.  Por lo pronto, amarillo y blanco han sido descontinuados y nosotros a su vez los descontinuaremos cuando de nos acabe nuestro stock.   

Darvic es el nombre patentado para el PVC no-plastificado, el cual es teñido con un producto que es bastante permanente y resistente a los rayos ultravioleta.  Esta es la ventaja número 1 de los anillos Darvic.  La manera de sellar estos anillos es con UPVC solvente de cemento utilizado por los gasfiteros (trabajos en tuberías).  Acetona no sellara los anillos y tampoco el Superglue™ porque estos no disolverán el anillos[1].  Para un sellado más fuerte, podría derretir el borde del anillo cerrado usando una pequeña pistola para soldar (Muchas gracias a Nils Warnock de PRBO por sus consejos para anillar con Darvic).  Los anillos Darvic son un poco más frágiles que los de celuloide.  Los colores Darvic son mas vivos que los celuloides y entre los dos materiales se puede obtener una gama muy variada del mismo color.  Por ejemplo, celeste y verde claro son mucho más claros en Darvic que en celuloide.

NOTA IMPORTANTE: guardar los anillos en ambientes a o bajo 110° F (43° C) o los anillos perderán su curvatura y se romperán.  No deje los anillos en su vehículo si hace mucho calor.

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